Coelogyne cristata is one of the most spectacular cool greenhouse orchids, appreciated by collectors for the purity of its flowers and the white "cascade" it forms. It is an epiphytic species (grows on trees) and lithophytic (grows on rocks), native to the cold, misty, and humid forests of the Eastern Himalayas (Nepal, India) and northern Vietnam.
Because it blooms at the end of winter or early spring, often before the snow has completely melted in its natural habitat, it has received evocative popular names: in Scandinavia and Germany it is called “Queen of Snow”, and in Bulgaria “Angel Orchid”.
1. Description and Morphology
It is a sympodial plant with a fast growth rate under optimal conditions.
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Pseudobulbs: They are the size of a walnut (or a small apple in mature specimens), spherical or ovoid, light green, growing clustered on the rhizome. A specific characteristic is their tendency to wrinkle during winter.
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Leaves: Dark green in color, they are narrow and lanceolate, usually 15-30 cm long (longer than in the initial description), two per tip of each pseudobulb.
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Flowers: This species has some of the largest flowers in the Coelogyne genus (7-10 cm diameter). They are crystal white ("ice-like"), with a wavy texture and a labellum marked with yellow-golden/orange "threads."
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Fragrance: It is a fragrant species. The flowers emit a sweet, distinct aroma, often compared to bananas or daffodils.
2. Light
This species loves light!
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Intensity: It needs a lot of light, similar to the requirements of the Cattleya genus (20,000 - 40,000 lux).
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Adaptation: Although in its natural environment it can tolerate direct sun (due to altitude and mist cooling the leaves), in cultivation it must be protected from the scorching midday sun during summer to avoid burns.
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Winter: Exposure to the maximum possible light is recommended.
3. Temperature (Critical Factor)
Coelogyne cristata is a cool/intermediate-cool climate orchid.
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Summer: Prefers moderate temperatures, during the day between 21 - 24°C. If temperatures are much higher for long periods, the plant should be shaded, well ventilated, and frequently misted. Excessive heat can inhibit flowering.
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Winter: This is the key season. Temperatures should drop, staying around 10 - 13°C during the day, and can fall to 6-8°C at night.
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Hardiness: The species can tolerate short and light frosts, but only if the substrate is completely dry at that time.
4. Watering and Humidity
The water regime varies drastically depending on the season (monsoon cycle).
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Spring - Summer (Active Growth): Once new shoots and roots appear, the plant needs plenty of water. The substrate should not be allowed to dry out completely between waterings during this period. Air humidity should be kept high (approx. 70%).
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Autumn - Winter (Rest): Starting from October/November, watering is gradually reduced. In winter, the plant enters dormancy. Watering will be only sporadic (maybe once every 2-3 weeks), just enough to prevent excessive dehydration of the pseudobulbs (slight wrinkling is normal and acceptable).
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Attention: Too much water in winter will lead to root rot or compromise blooming.
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Blooming: When flower spikes start to develop visibly, watering frequency can be slightly increased, taking care not to water the flowers (to prevent spotting).
5. Substrate and Containers
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Mix: Prefers a substrate that retains moisture but drains well. A good recipe is: medium-grain pine bark (not very fine, to avoid water stagnation and rot) mixed with Sphagnum moss, horticultural charcoal, and optionally coconut fiber.
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Mounting: It can be spectacularly grown mounted on cork plaques or in hanging baskets (wood/plastic), but these require daily watering (or several times a day) during summer.
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Pots: Plastic pots are easier to manage indoors.
6. Propagation and Repotting (Golden Rule)
This species hates having its roots disturbed.
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When to repot: Only when absolutely necessary (the substrate has decomposed or the plant has completely "escaped" from the pot). The ideal time is spring, immediately after flowering, when the first new roots are observed at the base of the new shoots.
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Division: Done by separating the rhizome, but make sure each division has at least 3-4 mature pseudobulbs.
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Warning: After division or repotting, the plant may "stall" and refuse to bloom until it stabilizes again.
7. Fertilization
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Fertilize abundantly only during the active growth period (May-August), using a balanced fertilizer.
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Fertilization stops completely in autumn and winter.
The secret to blooming: Strong light, plenty of water in summer, but a cold and dry winter ("distressed"). Without this cold rest, the plant will only produce leaves, not flowers.
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