The species of the genus Phalaenopsis and their hybrids are, without a doubt, the most popular among the varieties of orchids grown by collectors, from amateurs to enthusiasts and professionals. Even more so, in recent decades, due to the special interest in this genus, the efforts of breeders and hybridizers have followed this trend, giving rise to a multitude of shapes, colors, and fragrances that can satisfy any demands. Another aspect that makes Phalaenopsis species so appreciated is the ease of crossing these orchids with species from the genera Ascocentrum, Ascocenda, Vanda, Doritis, Doritaenopsis, Rhynchostylis, resulting in an impressive complex of spectacular hybrids.
The genus name comes from ancient Greek, probably related to the genus name Phalaena, given by Carl Linnaeus to a group of moths. These orchids inherit the name, being popularly called moth orchids in some countries due to the shape of the floral apparatus, which is said to resemble a moth in flight.
In terms of distribution, Phalaenopsis orchids come from Southeast Asia, from the Himalaya Mountains to the Polillo, Palawan, and Zamboanga del Norte islands on Mindanao Island in the Philippines, and sometimes as far as Australia. Taiwan's orchid island gets its name from this genus.
Most Phalaenopsis species are epiphytes, growing on trees, with a few being lithophytes (growing on rocks). In nature, some species grow in the canopy of humid jungles in low-altitude forests, protected from direct sunlight, while other species prefer climates with seasonal drought or low temperatures.
Phalaenopsis species do not have pseudobulbs or rhizomes; they have a monopodial growth habit, meaning the stems grow in a single direction, and the leaves, numbering one or two per year, are arranged alternately with a fleshy texture. As new leaves are produced, the plants will abscise the old basal leaves at the same rate as growth. If a Phalaenopsis specimen is very healthy, it can have 10 or more leaves simultaneously.
The inflorescences, in the form of racemes or panicles, emerge from the stem nodes located between the leaves and fully bloom over the course of a few weeks. In apartment conditions, the flowers can last up to 2 or 3 months.
Ideal temperature and humidity for orchid species must take into account the periodicity and seasonal alternation, but in the case of Phalaenopsis species, this aspect is not important, as in the native areas of these species there is no clear distinction between rainy and dry seasons. Phalaenopsis species generally populate humid forests along watercourses. The ideal temperature range will be between 22 – 28 ℃ for daytime temperatures and 16 – 20 ℃ for nighttime temperatures.
Atmospheric humidity will be around 60% for most hybrids, but it should be mentioned that botanical species and recent Asian hybrids prefer a much more humid climate, ideally around 80%.
It is very important that Phalaenopsis species are protected from sunlight during the warm season, always ensuring adequate shading, especially around noon. Light radiation values should be within the range of 10000 – 12000 lux for the seedling stage, 12000 – 20000 lux for the growth period, and 20000 – 30000 lux for the flowering period.
Watering Phalaenopsis species varies significantly depending on the cultivar. The fleshier, tougher, and harder the leaves of the plants are, the lower the water requirement will be; conversely, the more fragile and slightly translucent the leaves are, the more water-loving the species will be. Normally, watering should be done every 5 – 7 days or more frequently, preferably by submersion, allowing the substrate to dry between two successive waterings. In the case of pot cultivation, the ideal way to administer water is when the roots lose their green color and become pearly.
Fertilization of Phalaenopsis species can be done throughout the year, every 2 weeks, with balanced fertilizers at 25 – 50% of the dosage recommended by the manufacturer on the packaging. More diluted and frequent fertilizations are recommended, as Phalaenopsis orchids do not have nutrient storage structures.
Ventilation is a very important factor for Phalaenopsis orchid species, as they can easily contract various types of rots or other fungal and/or bacterial diseases that will significantly affect the plant in the absence of adequate air currents.
The substrate is an essential factor in the development of Phalaenopsis specimens. Currently, there are two accepted cultivation options:
Growing in sphagnum (Asian method) - growing in sphagnum can be considered similar to a hydroponic system. Plants receive constant moisture and develop much faster - practically, much larger specimens will be obtained in a much shorter time. The moss is very tightly packed so as not to allow significant air exchange and access to external pathogens, thus explaining very well the strong root system that most specimens imported from Asian countries have. Water retention is long-lasting (up to 2-3 weeks in the case of indoor cultivation - varies depending on season and microclimate). It is worth mentioning that this growing method requires spacing the plants in the growing area, as well as good ventilation, to prevent air stratification at the plant collar level, which could lead to collar diseases (rot, sclerotium, etc.). Sphagnum has its own beneficial bacterial flora, as well as a strong repellent effect against external pathogens - throughout history it was used by soldiers to dress wounds when there was no access to dressings and medical equipment. Also, sphagnum has its own NPK and a natural complex of phytohormones.
This growing method is considered ideal in Asian countries, due to numerous advantages, both economic and practical for cultivation.
Growing in pine bark (European method) - with substrates that are well aerated, represented by medium-grain conifer bark, sometimes large, depending on the size of the plant or the targeted cultivar. This can possibly be amended with one part sphagnum moss to four parts bark, for extra moisture, especially in the case of botanical species and Asian hybrids, thus also increasing the interval between waterings.
It is NOT recommended to abruptly move plants from sphagnum to bark. Such an operation can be extremely harmful and can cause a very high mortality rate among Phalaenopsis specimens. The transition from one growing system to another should be done gradually. Especially after purchasing the plants, it is necessary to acclimate the plants to the new environment before changing the growing system.
Phalaenopsis orchids do not require a rest period for reblooming.
Tips and tricks:
- in the morning, the sun's rays help fragrant species/hybrids to emit their specific scent. Depending on the lineage (parental formula, in the case of hybrids) the scent can be subtle or strong and can be perceived only in the morning, or throughout the day. Sometimes, plants need time to stabilize (days or even weeks) if the environment has changed (e.g., in the case of newly purchased plants).
- grow Phalaenopsis orchids in transparent pots, with drainage slots and good ventilation. The transparent pot will allow better examination of the roots and help you determine when it is the right time to water.
- for many species/hybrids, additional holes in the pot are recommended for good ventilation and air circulation
- culture containers can be placed in decorative pots, preferably transparent, if you follow a few simple rules: the decorative pot should be 1-2 cm wider; water should never stagnate in the decorative pot.
- most Phalaenopsis species/hybrids can be watered by submerging the pot in a container with water during the warm season - this way, humidity will last longer and watering can be done every 7-10 days, or even longer in the cold season. However, a minimum precaution and some study of the species/hybrid is recommended before using this watering method.
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