Caring for citrus is easier than you think if you follow a few basic principles. We propose the following care guide for citrus - lemon, mandarin - calamondin, kumquat, orange, or limequat - in a pot.
Placement: near a window or another well-lit place. Good sun exposure promotes flowering and harmonious development of the plant, but the "acclimatization" of a newly purchased plant to the sun should be done gradually to avoid shocks.
In the warm season, plants can be kept and grown outside, taking into account the intensity of the sun and the size of the pot. Small plants will have a small pot - which implies very rapid drying of the substrate and the need for frequent and abundant watering if grown in direct sun during the summer.
It is essential that in the cold season the plants are kept away from heat sources (e.g., radiator) or cold sources (e.g., a window that is often opened, drafts of cold air).
Watering will be adapted according to the microclimate (especially ambient temperature) and substrate. Ideally, watering is done when the substrate is completely dry. Too frequent watering leads to root rot and irreparably affected plants. Too infrequent watering leads to yellowing and drying of the leaves - a plant that needs water shows visibly wilted/dehydrated leaves.
Fertilization:
- Correct fertilization is needed for the plant to thrive, develop, and produce fruit;
- During the growing period, from April - May until September - October, fertilization will be done weekly, using a fertilizer designed for citrus. For the rest of the year, a single fertilization per month is sufficient - or fertilizations can be stopped completely - this aspect will be evaluated depending on the microclimate of the space where the plants are kept during winter.
Pruning:
- pruning of citrus plants will be done according to necessity and the plant's stage, avoiding disruption of the natural flowering and fruiting cycle. Pruning aims to rejuvenate the plant and improve its appearance (both aesthetic and practical).
- pruning should be done when the plant is in dormancy or when it has dry/damaged parts affected by pests.
Repotting:
- despite the fact that citrus plants require low maintenance, repotting done in spring can help maintain the plant's health;
- there are two approaches - either repotting into a larger pot, or simply replacing part of the original substrate (refreshing the soil) in the pot where the plant already is (preferably with minimal intervention on the roots). During this process, degraded roots can be removed (if any). Moving to a larger container involves choosing a pot about 2-3 cm larger than the original - the new container will provide more space for root system development. Then fresh substrate or clay balls are placed at the bottom of the pot, enough to raise the plant to the correct level at the top. Finally, substrate is added around the edges, gently pressed with fingers. Note: do not compact the new substrate too much - it must remain permeable to allow new root growth.
- for repotting, a special substrate for citrus will be used
The general guide for repotting is available here: Repotting - When and How to Do It
Pests:
Among possible pests are aphids, armored scale insects, woolly aphids, thrips, and mites (the red spider mite being the most common and aggressive). A complete range of insecticides/acaricides can be found here: Plant Treatments
There are also biological or homemade treatments, but their effectiveness is questionable or scientifically unproven.
Periodic checking of plants works wonders - regularly examine the leaves and immediately apply the necessary phytosanitary treatment if pests appear. The earlier they are identified, the greater the chances of getting rid of them without permanent/significant damage to the plants. In early stages, they can be removed by manual picking or by cleaning the leaves with a water jet - but this is a temporary solution until the appropriate phytosanitary treatment is applied.
Tips and tricks:
- citrus plants tend to lose fruit and a large part of their foliage when they experience poor fertilization or an unsuitable/aged substrate (with too little or too much water retention, lacking minerals, etc.). Generally, fruits are lost when the plant shows an iron deficiency or serious care deficiencies.
- some articles and some growers claim that incorporating simple iron nails in the pot provides citrus plants with a natural iron supply, with gradual release. Such a theory has not been proven - while this procedure cannot harm the plant, we still recommend using a fertilizer designed for citrus, instead of relying on "old wives' remedies".
- at each repotting, place a layer of clay balls, pumice stone, or simple gravel at the bottom of the pot for better drainage;
- plants grown indoors can be pollinated using a fine brush, with which you will touch the center of each flower. Citrus plants do not necessarily need such a procedure, as they are generally self-fertile - however, this effort can improve the harvest (the quantity of fruit);
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