Lycaste is an orchid with large pseudobulbs, pleated leaves, and flowers that look sculpted, but not all Lycaste require identical care. The difference between a deciduous plant and one that stays green through winter determines how you water, fertilize, and prepare it for the following season.
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How to recognize a Lycaste
The genus Lycaste is botanically accepted and includes orchids from Mexico to northern South America. The plants have well-defined, ovoid pseudobulbs and long, slender leaves with prominent pleats. The flower stem emerges from the base of the mature pseudobulb, not from its tip.
The flowers are generally large compared with the plant, in shades of green, yellow, orange, white, cream, or reddish brown. Some, including Lycaste aromatica, are fragrant. The appearance of the flower explains why Lycaste is appreciated even when it has few stems: each flower is striking and can remain decorative for a long time.
Deciduous or evergreen Lycaste
This is the distinction that prevents most mistakes. Many Lycaste grown in commercial cultivation originate from the deciduous-leaved group. In autumn, the leaves turn yellow and fall; the plant enters a stage without active growth. Evergreen Lycaste, on the other hand, retain their foliage and should not be treated as completely dormant plants.
Practical rule: if your Lycaste has naturally lost its leaves and the pseudobulbs are mature, reduce watering significantly. If it remains green or begins new growth, do not let it dry out completely; simply water less often than during active growth.
Winter dormancy explained step by step. If your plant is a deciduous Lycaste, also read the dedicated guide to the winter rest period for Lycaste: it explains when to reduce watering and which signs indicate that it should be resumed.
Light and temperature
Lycaste needs bright but filtered light. An east-facing window or a very bright area protected from strong midday sun usually works well. In summer, light shading prevents the leaves from overheating; during the colder season, the plant can be placed closer to the light source.
Most adapt to intermediate conditions, with moderate days and cooler nights. Excessive heat combined with direct light leaves the foliage scorched and dehydrated. If the growing area is very warm in summer, increase ventilation, protect the plant and monitor the potting mix more closely.
Watering during the growing season
As long as new leaves or roots are appearing, Lycaste uses a lot of water. Water thoroughly until the excess drains away, then allow the mix to approach dryness at the surface before watering again. The pseudobulbs should remain firm; pronounced wrinkling indicates that the plant is staying too dry, while a mix that is constantly soggy, heavy, and cold suffocates the roots.
Adjust watering according to the plant's growth rate, not a fixed day of the week. A small pot, fresh bark, and warm conditions require more frequent watering; a mix containing sphagnum and cooler weather call for a longer interval between waterings.
Winter period: when to reduce watering
For deciduous Lycaste, the winter period begins after the pseudobulbs mature and the leaves fall naturally. At that point, stop fertilizing and reduce watering almost completely. Provide only a small amount of water if the pseudobulbs become severely dehydrated; the goal is to prevent extreme dehydration, not to keep the potting mix moist.
For evergreen plants, reduce only the frequency of watering after the pseudobulbs have formed. They retain leaves that continue to use water. Applying a “rest period” without inspecting the plant can stop growth and compromise flowering.
Potting mix and repotting
Repot when new roots appear, preferably after flowering, rather than simply according to the calendar. Use an airy mix that still retains some moisture: fine- to medium-grade bark, perlite, and an appropriate amount of sphagnum make a good base. The pot must have effective drainage.
Do not divide a small plant into isolated pseudobulbs. Division has a better chance of success when each section retains several mature pseudobulbs and a clear growing point. Older pseudobulbs can support recovery even if they no longer have leaves.
For repotting, Premium Potting Mix for Cambria, Cymbidium, Oncidium, Zygopetalum and Dendrobium can be a suitable base. Then adjust the amount of sphagnum according to how quickly the mix dries in the location where you keep the plant.
Fertilizing
During active growth, use a balanced fertilizer diluted and applied to an already moist potting mix. Stop fertilizing when the new growths mature, especially when a deciduous Lycaste enters its stage without active growth. Periodically flush the mix with plain water to limit salt buildup.
For nutrition, use diluted Cameleon - Premium Orchid Fertilizer, only during active growth and on an already moist potting mix.
Flowering and pseudobulbs
Flowers emerge from the base of mature pseudobulbs, often from late winter through spring, but the actual timing varies according to the species, hybrid, and growing conditions. A large, firm pseudobulb with fully matured growth is the best preparation for flowering. Do not force the flower stem with more water or fertilizer once the plant has entered its stage without active growth.
Common problems
The leaves fall. In a deciduous hybrid, leaf drop in autumn is normal. If it happens suddenly in summer, check the roots, heat, direct light, and repeated drying.
Wrinkled pseudobulbs. During winter, slight wrinkling is acceptable. During active growth, check whether the roots are absorbing water and whether the potting mix has become too dry between waterings.
Brown tips. These can appear after salt buildup, air that is too dry, damaged roots, or alternating periods of extreme dryness and heavy watering. Flush the mix and correct the watering routine; do not automatically cut off green leaves.
It does not flower. The most common causes are insufficiently mature pseudobulbs, inadequate light, prolonged fertilizing during winter, or conditions that are too wet during the rest period for a deciduous Lycaste.
Frequently asked questions
Is it normal for it to lose all its leaves?
Yes, for many deciduous Lycaste. Check whether the pseudobulbs are firm and whether the plant has finished growing; in that case, leaf drop may mark the beginning of the stage without active growth.
Should it be watered in winter?
A leafless Lycaste should be kept almost dry, with small amounts of water provided only if the pseudobulbs become severely dehydrated. A plant that remains green needs more water, even if less frequently than in summer.
Can I keep Lycaste next to a radiator?
This is not a good location. Hot, dry air dehydrates the leaves and accelerates the drying of the potting mix. Choose a bright spot with more stable temperatures.
Why shouldn't I cut off old pseudobulbs?
They retain reserves and can help the plant produce new roots or growths. Remove only parts that are completely dry or diseased.
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